This CAN'T be SAFE! Off-Grid Minivan CAMPER gets WEIGHED!

I’ve transformed my humble minivan into a fully loaded, off-grid adventure machine. But here’s the big question: just how much weight have I added to this beast?

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Let’s start from the top—literally. My roof is stacked with four crossbars, a 6-foot Thule roof box, solar panels, propane tanks, more gear boxes, a privacy shower tent, and a massive 270° awning. On the back, I’ve got a swing-out cargo carrier loaded with a generator, two 5-gallon buckets, a step ladder, camp chair, and more. And that’s just the exterior!

Inside, it’s next-level. I’ve got a folding sofa bed, a portable kitchen with running water, a butcher block counter with a stove and—yes—an air fryer. Add a microwave, side storage, under-storage, tote storage, food storage, 16 gallons of fresh water, 2,700 watt-hours of lithium power, and even a hidden toilet for when nature calls. Oh, and don’t forget to tack on another 200 pounds for me, plus all the cabinets, platforms, and wood framing holding everything together.

So, how much weight have I piled onto this rolling overland tank? And more importantly, is it safe to drive? Let’s dive in.

If you’ve seen my other videos, you know safety is my top priority. I’m meticulous about every detail, including the weight of every single item in and on my van. Whether you’re driving a truck, car, camper, or RV, there are four key things you need to know: payload capacity, roof capacity, towing capacity, and tongue weight.

Payload capacity includes everything you add inside, outside, on top, or on the hitch—people, gear, supplies, and pets included. Roof capacity is split into static (when parked) and dynamic (when driving). For nomads like me, dynamic capacity is crucial. It covers racks, rails, crossbars, gear boxes, solar panels—anything mounted up top. Even though my Thule crossbars are rated for 220 pounds per pair, giving me a theoretical 440-pound limit with four bars, my minivan’s dynamic roof capacity is only 165 pounds. Yup, I’m over that limit, so a redesign is definitely in the works.

Towing capacity and tongue weight come into play if you’re pulling a trailer or using a hitch-mounted cargo carrier. My max towing capacity is about 2,500 pounds, with a safe tongue weight around 375 pounds. But my Class 2 hitch is only rated for 350 pounds of tongue weight, so I have to keep my hitch cargo under that limit. Overloading can mess with your vehicle’s tires, suspension, and even cause instability by lifting weight off the front wheels.

To support my rig, I installed a Timbren suspension enhancement system—super easy to install with just a floor jack. While it helps prevent sagging and improves ride quality, it doesn’t increase my van’s cargo capacity. You could also add heavy-duty springs or airbags if needed, but for me, this setup works, especially since I removed the 50-pound third-row seat.

Now, let’s talk about how I track all this weight. While many folks head to professional weigh stations, I take a more DIY approach. I use a bathroom scale and my phone’s Notes app. Here’s how: I weigh myself holding an item, then without it, and subtract the difference. Not super scientific, but it gets the job done. Plus, I round up every weight to the next pound to build in a safety buffer.

Time for the weigh-in! We’ll break it down into three sections: cargo carrier, interior, and rooftop.

First up, the cargo carrier. The box weighs 52 pounds, and the swing-out frame adds another 48. Inside, the generator is 47 pounds, the camp chair 14, the step ladder 12, the folding toilet 5, and the rug 4. My two 5-gallon buckets—one with tools (25 pounds) and the other with trash bags and wipes (10 pounds)—plus motor oil and coolant (5 pounds) bring the hitch weight to 223 pounds.

Next, the interior. The folding sofa bed totals 78 pounds, the DIY kitchen sink box 50, and the custom toilet 30. In the trunk, there’s a 62-pound power station, a smaller 22-pound one, and a full 56-pound water tank, plus another 10 pounds for miscellaneous storage. Add the butcher block countertop (20 pounds), microwave (22), wood floor (60), and 50 pounds for the microwave box and rear cabinet. The DIY camper table is 20 pounds, side storage units are 15 pounds each, and food storage adds another 40 pounds. Four red top storage totes total 60 pounds, the fridge is nearly 40, and at times holds up to 30 pounds of food. Lastly, 100 pounds for my TV, air fryer, inverter, fuse panel, two camp stoves, water kettle, CPAP, and other gadgets. Interior total: 780 pounds.

Finally, the rooftop. The awning is 70 pounds, solar panels 50, front gear box 25, and propane tanks 44 when full. The back gear box is 5 pounds, the shower tent 20, and the Thule roof box 31 (now empty). That’s 245 pounds—let’s round up to 250.

Adding it all up: 780 pounds inside, 223 pounds on the cargo carrier, and 250 pounds on the roof. That’s 1,253 pounds. Add 200 pounds for me, and the total payload is 1,453 pounds. My van’s maximum payload capacity? 1,500 pounds. We’re under by 47 pounds—and subtracting the 150 pounds of seats I removed, we’re actually under by nearly 200 pounds!

Weight distribution is just as important as total weight. I’ve balanced everything from side to side and front to back. The awning on the passenger side is countered by the gear boxes, propane tanks, and shower tent on the driver side. Inside, I balance heavy items like water tanks and power stations across both sides to keep things even.

While I’m under my payload limit, my roof is definitely overweight, so that’s my next project. Remember, your weight measurements don’t need to be exact, but it’s crucial to stay mindful and avoid overloading. Thanks for following along, and until next time—happy travels!